Copy in clipboard...
Iranian mountaineer lost on Makalu after winter ascent
Gozali, 43, disappeared during his descent somewhere between Camp IV and Camp III, following a triumphant summit bid on January 15 alongside a Nepali Sherpa team, marking the first Iranian winter ascent of the 8,485-meter (27,838-foot) peak in 17 years, IRNA reported.
The body of Sherpa climber Phurba Ongel has been found at 7,500 meters.
He had previously summited Manaslu and Lhotse, and held the record for the fastest acquisition of the Snow Leopard award, a prestigious recognition for climbing seven peaks over 6,000 meters.
Gozali embarked on his Makalu expedition with the “Sano Sherpa” team from Nepal on December 17, aiming to conquer the notoriously difficult peak during the winter season. The mountain, known locally as the “Black Devil” due to its frigid temperatures – often plummeting below -30°C (-22°F) – presents formidable conditions, including steep rock and ice faces and unpredictable weather patterns. Only one previous winter ascent of Makalu has been recorded, achieved by Polish and Italian climbers decades ago.
“The situation is incredibly complex,” stated Hamid Mosaedian, head of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation’s rescue committee. “One of the Sherpas fell, and several others went to assist him. Gozali descended alone, and we haven’t seen him since. Rescue teams were deployed, but unfortunately, they haven’t located him.”
Search and rescue operations, hampered by severe weather conditions, are ongoing. Teams are currently assessing the possibility of renewed efforts once wind speeds subside in the coming days.
According to 8K Expeditions, four experienced Sherpa rescuers-Ashok Lama, Pasdawa Sherpa, Ang Chhiring Sherpa, and Pasang Tenji Sherpa-were deployed to Base Camp on Saturday morning in a voluntary mission to recover the deceased climber and search for the missing Iranian alpinist.