Everest conqueror Danaei sets sights on K2 peak
By Mahdieh Qazvinian
Guest contributor
Iranian record-breaking mountaineer Amir Danaei says his next journey will be aimed at summiting K2 in the Karakoram range on the Pakistan-China border.
“I will leave for Pakistan in late April, and I will be joined by a group of climbers from all around the world to head for K2,” Danaei told Iran Daily, adding: “Given its unique conditions, K2 is a dream destination for all mountaineers, and I want to be the youngest Iranian to ever reach that summit.”
At 8,611 meters, K2 is the second highest peak in the world, known to be one of the most dangerous and difficult treks due to avalanches, steepness and unpredictable weather.
Nicknamed the ‘Savage Mountain’, K2 boasts the second highest fatality rate – following Annapurna in Nepal – with 23 deaths per 100 successful summits.
K2’s death zone is particularly perilous, and its constant rockfalls, and difficult climbing sections contribute to its high mortality rate.
Some high-profile mountaineers, including Pakistani Muhammad Ali Sadpara, lost their lives while ascending the mountain.
Danaei, however, is no stranger to the scale of the task as he became the youngest-ever Iranian to reach the highest altitude on the face of the earth when he peaked Mount Everest at the age of 23 last May.
“I was privileged to train under a couple of acclaimed mountaineers in Nepalese Mingma Gyabu Sherpa and Nirmal Purja before embarking on the 150-day ascent,” Danaei said.
The feat saw the Iranian receive a world gold medal by the country’s Sports Ministry – a prize handed to the climbers who summit the 8,500m-plus peaks.
Danaei, for whom the climbing adventure began with Georgia’s Mount Kazbek – a dormant stratovolcano in the Caucasus – when he was 16, says his Everest ascent rounded off “seven years of hard work and dedication” to his beloved sport.
“It is a dream for any mountaineer to step on the Everest peak one day. You have to be a climbing devotee and put your life at stake to achieve your goal. All those years of tireless effort flashed right before my eyes when I stood on the peak,” said the Iranian.
“There was no clouds and fog around, so I could easily see the distant horizon. The oxygen level is massively low up there but I took the mask off and offered gratitude to the greatness of God while waving the Iranian flag. I’m sure that moment will never be repeated in my life.”
Speaking of the challenges facing him in the Everest journey, Danaei said: “The proper climbing equipment has always been a top priority for me as I believe that can save you life in the toughest circumstances. The Nepalese food was also a barrier as it does not fit the Iranian taste, which is why I had to carry a 120kg bag with me.”
“Our trip was delayed by the adverse weather a couple of times, no to mention the avalanches are quite challenging. A polish female teammate and I were stuck in one and came within inches of the death,” Danaei added.
“The most unpredicted incident, however, happened when an Indian climber in the group had a Covid-like illness and led to the rest of team suffering from that. I remember I had to deal with a high temperature in a 6,500m-high camp but I carried on.”
The K2 ascent will be yet another episode in an already impressive career for Danaei, who has peaked Mount Ararat in Turkey and Armenia’s Mount Aragats as well as Mount Damavand – the highest peak in Iran and West Asia at 5,609 meters – on a remarkable 30 occasions over the past seven years.